Chamonix Green & White » Climbing

Sport climbing at Les Gaillands

admin — Thu, 18 Aug 2011 14:39:05 +0000

The Gailland area has around 130 bolted routes. Opened in the 1930′s as a place where alpinists could learn to climb. Due to easy access it can get very busy at times.

View Sport climbing at Les Gaillands in a larger map

2 km south south west from Chamonix town centre. Accessed directly from the road.

The Areas

Grand Gailland
Le Petit Gaillands
Picsou
Vipers

Description

C’est le paradis des débutants et des grimpeurs très occasionnels, grâce à une multitude de voies du 3 au 5. D’ailleurs, la falaise est très fréquentée… presque tous les jours de l’année ! Que ce soit par des grimpeurs en chaussons ou alpinistes en chaussures de montagne. Les rochers des Gaillands sont une sorte de lieu mythique où se retrouvent, durant la belle saison, tous les échantillons de la faune grimpante : c’est l’alpinodrome. A éviter si l’on aime le calme. Le paysage lointain est sympa : très belle vue sur le massif du Mont-Blanc et en particulier le glacier des Bossons, Le proche l’est moins : route et parking mais dans les secteurs de gauche, on est confiné dans la forêt.

L’escalade

le rocher, un gneiss compact, offre une escalade variée: dalles, fissures, surplombs… avec 60% des voies d’un niveau inférieur au 5+.
I’équipement est constitué de solides scellements. Par endroits les points restent espacés (chutes dangereuses possibles).
Informations complète dans “Guide des écoles d’escalade de la vallée de chamonix”

Accès

Ce site se trouve à 2 km de Chamonix-centre (de la Poste). Prendre la direction “les Gaillands”; la falaise est au bord de la route.

Climbing Aiguille de la Berangere in Chamonix

admin — Fri, 29 Jul 2011 13:00:37 +0000

Grade F
Length of climb 695m height gain, 3 hours
High season june – september
Access

The route is climbed from the Conscrits hut which is reached from the village of Cugnon (1100m), near to Les Contamines.

Route

Day 1:

To Conscrits hut.

From Les Contamines, go to small village of Cugnon (1100m) and park.

Take the well-marked trail up through the forest to the Tré la Tête hut (2 hours).

From there, follow the path to the foot of the glacier (1 hour), then head towards the centre of the glacier and up towards the Tré la Tête-Grande seracs. Cross the flat area below the seracs towards the right bank.

Climb up onto the right bank of the glacier on fairly steep ground, following blue paint marks.There are fixed ropes and hand lines in steepest section then a path leading to the hut.

3 hours from Tré la Tête hut, 5 hours in total.

Agrandir le plan

Day 2:

From the hut, climb the NW moraine on the left, leading to a large snow slope.

This leads on to a steeper section to reach the B?É¬©rang?É¬®re glacier.

Climb the glacier and then the easy rocks to the summit.

Descent

Same route in reverse.

Enfin des bonnes conditions prévues et une météo au beau ! cool

Nous devions monter au dôme de Polset mais au dernier moment nous avons appelé le refuge des conscrits où le sympathique gardien pouvait nous accueillir, c’est donc parti pour les Dômes de Miage.

Départ de Chambéry, camp de base au camping du lac Carouge, pour le Cugnon juste à côté des Contamines en Haute Savoie, 1h30 de route.

Speed climbing finals tonight (July 12th 2011)

admin — Tue, 12 Jul 2011 15:00:57 +0000

The International Climbing Festival tonight contests the Speed climbing finals.

British Climbers killed on Frendo Spur Route, Aiguille du Midi

admin — Mon, 04 Jul 2011 08:04:26 +0000

Two British climbers were killed climbing the Frendo Spur Route on the Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix on Friday 1st July.

The latest news is that may have fallen 800-850m. Please see this website for further details.

“Pretty straightforward approach from the Plan d-Aiguille station (halfway station up the Aiguille du Midi Lift). Put that helmet on early because of the crud falling off.

Check the Weather at the OHM (Office du Haute Montagtne) and read the climber’s log book there for the latest conditions. Watch it as the rock and icefall last year were above average.”

SummitPost.org

Traverse of the Domes du Miage

admin — Tue, 25 May 2010 15:21:38 +0000

Traverse of the D?¥mes du Miage

This is a very manageable ridge route with incredible views of Mont Blanc and the Bionnassay. The d?¥mes form a chain of five summits to the south west of the Mont Blanc massif. The route includes both rock and ice and often follows the slender crest of the ridge so good mastery of crampon technique is essential. The days are long so fitness is also a requirement.
The ridge can be climbed in either direction but east to west is most commonly taken.

Length of climb ‚Äì 1st day: 1600m height gain ‚Äì 5-6 hours
– 2nd day:3km long ridge, 950m to highest point ‚Äì 5 hours Descent ‚Äì 4-5 hours

High season ‚Äì June to September

Equipment ‚Äì axe, crampons, 30m rope, harness, ice screws, 3 quickdraws

Access
Climbed from the Conscrits hut, reached from Les Contamines.

Route

Day1:
To the Conscrits hut.
From Les Contamines, go to the small village of Cugnon and park.
Take the well-marked trail up through the forest to the Tr?©-la-T?™te hut (1970m), 2 hours.
From there, follow the path to the foot of the glacier (1 hour), then head towards the centre of the glacier and up towards the Tr?©-la-Grande seracs. Cross the flat area below the seracs towards the right bank.
Follow blue paint marks to climb to the hut. There are fixed ropes and hand lines in sections. 3 hours from Tr?©-la-T?™te hut.

Day 2:
Take the track behind the hut in a north-easterly direction leading to the Tr?©-la-T?™te glacier- rope and crampons required.
Go north to pass above the heavily crevassed section and then return to the middle of the glacier. Climb the central section, maneuvering past obstacles on their right hand sides.
At 3300m, the slope flattens out and the Col des D?¥mes can be seen to the north-west, between the 3rd and 4th d?¥mes. Reach the bowl leading to the col from the right bank to avoid the seracs and climb to the col.
From here, the route is more technical.
Follow the crest of the ridge to the left in a south-westerly direction up to pointe 3669m. Then walk diagonally down across the top of the Armancette glacier on the north face to reach the Col de la B?©rang?®re.
To make the descent easier, it is better to climb La B?©rang?®re.
Take the ridge from the col, then when the exposure is too great, go up the north face ‚Äì may be snow or rock depending on conditions at the time.

Descent
Follow the southwest rocky ridge of La B?©rang?®re down to the left bank of a small glacier. Once the flatter section is reached, bear right in a southwesterly direction. Cross snow and scree slopes to a track leading to the Tr?©-la-T?™te glacier or the Conscrits hut.

Dent du Geant, 4013 m

admin — Mon, 17 May 2010 09:48:33 +0000

Dent du G?©ant SW face

Grade AD

This is an excellent peak with airy climbing on high quality rock with a fantastic 360 view from the top.
An early start is not necessary as it is in shade in the morning, though you may want to beat the crowds.
There are fixed ropes up most of the climb.

Length of climb - 4¬? to 5¬? hours from the hut

High season ‚Äì June to September

Equipment ‚Äì axe, crampons, rope, harness, slings, nuts, quickdraws

Access ‚Äì from Torino hut

Route
Day1:
Hut is accessed from the Aiguille du Midi t?©l?©pherique station and crossing the Vall?©e Blanche via the t?©lecabine to Pt Helbronner.

Day 2:
From the hut, cross the glacier passing right of point 3615m to the base of the shoulder underneath the Dent du G?©ant. Go up the snowy couloir to the col on the left and then follow the ridge on right leading up to the face. Climb this in much the same line. As the angle lessens near the top, a large pillar can be seen.
Go around this on either side to the snowy ar?™te beyond. This leads to a large rock called the Salle ?† Manger. Climb a large flake to the left of this and the slab above.
Traverse left here for 10m or so then climb about 30m up a couloir to a terrace on the left. From here, fixed ropes are on the exposed slabs leading to the SW summit.
To reach the NE summit, descend a short chimney and climb facing wall up to the top.

Descent
By abseil down the south face to the Salle ?† Manger.

History

Pointe Graham (4,013 m), first ascent by W. W. Graham with guides Auguste Cupelin and Alphonse Payot on 20 August 1882. This ascent marked the end of the so-called silver age of alpinism.

Pointe Sella (4,009 m), first ascent by Jean Joseph Maquignaz with son Baptiste Maquignaz and nephew, Daniel Maquignaz on 28 July 1882. The same party climbed Pointe Sella a second time on the following day with clients Alessandro Sella, Alfonso Sella, Corradino Sella and Gaudenzio Sella. Graham noted on his first ascent that one of the Maquignazes had carved the letter ‘M’ on a rock step just below the summit of Pointe Sella.

Couloir de la Table

admin — Fri, 14 May 2010 14:18:46 +0000

Grade PD

This is a steep snow gully on the SW side of the Aiguille du Tour.
The route is named after a large granite boulder which has fallen on its side and is miraculously perched on the west ridge. The ‚Äòtable‚Äô is an amazing feature and makes the route an amusing challenge to climbers.

Length of climb 3¬? hours from hut to summit of Aiguille du Tour 3544m

High season must be climbed early season for there to be snow in the couloir. Preferably may/june.

Access
From the village of Le Tour, take the Charamillon t?©l?©cabine and the Balme chairlift to the Col de Balme.

Route
Day 1 : To the Albert Premier hut

From the top of the lift, follow the well-marked track south.
The trail goes left, overlooking the Tour glacier, then crosses a rocky section which is fairly steep but not difficult.
Crampons may be needed for final section up to the hut.
1¬? hours.

Day 2
The track starts behind the hut in an easterly direction.
After about 15 minutes, the Tour glacier is reached. Put on crampons and rope up.
Cross diagonally eastwards keeping in line with the Aiguilles. As it steepens, look for a rocky outcrop on the right hand side called Signal Reilly. Go around this on the uphill side to gain gentle slopes once more. Continue south-east. On the left,a glacial bay leads to the Couloir de la Table.
The couloir is climbed on steep snow and ice up to an angle of 50Àö and leads to a notch in the W ridge just above the table.
A variation is to leave the couloir on the left and gain the ridge just below the table. A large ledge is reached and the table is climbed by an exposed mantle.
From here, it is easy but exposed climbing along the ridge to the summit.

Cosmiques Arete

admin — Thu, 13 May 2010 13:54:48 +0000

Cosmiques Ar?™te

Grade AD 4a

This climb is deservedly extremely popular. Short, safe and exhilarating, on good quality rock, it is a perfect introduction to Alpine mixed climbing.

Height 150m climb to 3770m

High season June to September

Equipment
50m rope, half set of nuts, 4 quickdraws, 4 slings

Access
Reached from, and ending at the top of the Aiguille du Midi t?©l?©ph?©rique.

Route
From the t?©l?©ph?©rique station, walk down the snowy crest ( can be icy so crampons and axe advisable) to the Col du Midi.
Go around the rock spur to the foot of the Cosmiques Ridge.

¬†

From there climb the snow slope to the right of the ridge- narrow in places. Move rightwards to reach the inclined slabs. Climb to the first gendarme of the subsidiary summit 3731m and proceed along the crest of the ridge to the second.

From here the route descends slightly while traversing. This is exposed and it can be advisable to abseil. Continue on to pass between two rock walls and then abseil 30m down a small gully. Traverse across to a tower where you climb a slightly awkward chimney (4a) to a substantial ledge on the right.

Go over a short snow slope to regain the ridge and from here you can choose either to go right round a second tower or left around it by descending a split in the tower to a snowy crest. Proceed along the ridge to the final step. Climb a short, slabby wall (4c) to a small ledge, then up a few metres either by a chimney on the left or a crack on the right to a platform.

Traverse left and step down to reach a large corner/ chimney. Climb this in 2 pitches (3c/4a) to a final snowy shoulder and the applause of the crowd as you reach the viewing platform. Bask in the glory and have a well- earned beer!

Descent
Aiguille du Midi t?©l?©ph?©rique.

Conscrits Hut 2602m

admin — Thu, 13 May 2010 13:45:00 +0000

+33 (0)4 79 89 09 03

90 places

On the southern slopes of the Tr?É¬©-la-Grande, on the right bank of the Tr?É¬©-la-T?É¬™te glacier.

From Les Contamines, go to small village of Cugnon and park.
Take the well-marked trail up through the forest to the Tr?É¬©-la-T?É¬™te hut. 2 hours. From there, follow the path to the foot of the glacier (1 hour), then head towards the centre of the glacier and up towards the Tr?É¬©-la-Grande seracs.

Cross the flat area below the seracs towards the right bank.

Follow blue paint marks to climb to the hut. There are fixed ropes and hand lines in sections.
3 hours from Tr?É¬©-la-T?É¬™te hut, 5 hours from Cugnon.

British rock climbing grades

admin — Tue, 11 May 2010 08:44:52 +0000

The British grading system for traditional climbs has two parts: the adjectival grade and the technical grade. (Sport climbing in Britain uses the French grading system, often prefixed with the letter ‚ÄúF‚Äù.)
The adjectival grade attempts to assess the overall difficulty of the climb taking into account all factors, for a climber leading the route on sight in traditional style. In the early 20th century it ran Easy, Moderate, Difficult, but increasing standards have several times lead to extra grades being added at the top. The adjectival grades are as follows:

‚Ä¢ Easy (rarely used)
‚Ä¢ Moderate (M)
‚Ä¢ Difficult (D, or ‚ÄòDiff‚Äô)
‚Ä¢ Very Difficult (VD, or ‚ÄòVDiff‚Äô)
‚Ä¢ Hard Very Difficult (HVD)
‚Ä¢ Severe (S)
‚Ä¢ Hard Severe(HS)
‚Ä¢ Very Severe (VS)
‚Ä¢ Hard Very Severe (HVS)
‚Ä¢ Extremely Severe (E1, E2, E3, …)
‚Ä¢ XS is used for climbs that are on loose or crumbling rock that are seldom repeated after the first ascent

The Extremely Severe grade is subdivided in an open-ended fashion into E1 (easiest) then E2, E3 and so on. As of 2006 the hardest climb is graded E11, but many climbers consider such high grades provisional as the climbs have not yet been climbed by anyone on sight. The hardest confirmed grade is E9.

Some guidebooks make finer distinctions by adding the prefix ‚ÄúMild‚Äù or ‚ÄúHard‚Äù (thus, Hard Very Difficult and Mild Severe lie between Very Difficult and Severe).
The technical grade attempts to assess only the technical climbing difficulty of the hardest move or moves on the route without regard to the danger of the move or the stamina required if there are several such moves in a row. Technical grades are open-ended, starting at 1 and subdivided into ‚Äúa‚Äù, ‚Äúb‚Äù and ‚Äúc‚Äù, but you are unlikely to see any mention of them below 4a. The hardest recorded climbs are around 7b.

Usually the technical grade increases with the adjectival grade but a hard technical move very near the ground (that is, notionally safe) may not raise the standard of the adjectival grade very much. VS 4c might be a typical grade for a route. VS 4a would usually indicate very poor protection (easy moves, but no gear), VS 5b would usually indicate the crux move was the first move or very well protected. On multi-pitch routes it is usual to give the overall climb an adjectival grade and each pitch a separate technical grade (such as HS 4b, 4a).

Grade Comparison Chart

¬†

UK technical grade	UK adjective grade	French
¬†	Easy	1
		2
	Moderate	2+
	Difficult D	3
	Very Difficult VD	?Ç¬†
4a	Severe S	3+
4c	Hard Severe HS	¬†
	Very Severe VS	5a
5a	Hard Very Severe HVS	5b
5b	E1	5c
		6a
5c	E2	6a+
		6b
6a	E3	6b+
		6c
	E4	6c+
		7a
6b	E5	7a+
		7b
6c	E6	7b+
		7c
	E7	7c+
		8a
7a	E8	8b
		8c
		9a
7c	E9

French Alpine & Rock Climbing Grades

admin — Mon, 10 May 2010 13:38:30 +0000

The french system gives an overall difficulty grade to a route, taking into consideration the length, difficulty, exposure and commitment level (e.g. how hard it may be to retreat). These are, in increasing order:

‚Ä¢ F….. ……………….. ‚Äúfacile‚Äù – easy
‚Ä¢ PD………………….. ‚Äúpeu difficile‚Äù – a little difficult
‚Ä¢ AD………………….. ‚Äúassez difficile‚Äù – fairly difficult
‚Ä¢ D……………………. ‚Äúdifficile‚Äù – difficult
‚Ä¢ TD………………….. ‚Äútr?®s difficile‚Äù – very difficult
‚Ä¢ ED1/2/3/4………. ‚Äúextr?™mement difficile‚Äù – extremely difficult

Often a + or a ‚Äì is placed after the grade to indicate if a particular climb is at the lower or upper end of that grade (e.g. a climb slightly harder than ‚ÄúPD+‚Äù might be ‚ÄúAD-‚Äù).

French rock climbing grades

The French grading system considers the overall difficulty of the climb, taking into account the difficulty of the moves and the length of climb. This differs from most grading systems where one rates a climbing route according to the most difficult section (or single move). Grades are numerical, starting at 1 (very easy) and the system is open-ended. Each numerical grade can be subdivided by adding a letter (a, b or c). Examples: 2, 4, 4b, 6a, 7c. An optional + (no -) may be used to further differentiate difficulty. Many countries in Europe use a system with similar grades but not necessarily matching difficulties.

Chamonix Valley Mountain Huts

admin — Mon, 10 May 2010 13:30:32 +0000

Chamonix and the Mont Blanc Massif is a fantastic terrain for mountaineering. All along these routes there are plenty of huts and refuges that will help you break up your route and get some rest.Some of them have a guardian all year, others just in the summer and some of them are just a bivouac with no “guardian” at all.

In this section there is a list of the huts in the Mont-Blanc and neighbouring area. They are organized by country or by theme.

The information in this section comes from the people that run the refuges and huts. All information can always change because of weather conditions or other constraints.

Reservations are necessary in most cases and must be made by phoning the hut guardian; there is no central booking office for huts.

If you need any more help, please contact the
Office de Haute Montange in Chamonix,
33 (0)4 50 53 22 08

Aiguille de Toule

admin — Sun, 09 May 2010 07:29:11 +0000

Aiguille de Toule 3534m

Small and isolated, the Aiguille de Toule is within an hour‚Äôs walk of the Torino hut and has superb views of the Mont Blanc massif.

Length of climb 150m

High season – June to September

Equipment – 50m rope, half set of nuts, 8 quickdraws, 4 slings, ice axe

Access

Route
Day 1 : to the Torino Hut.

The approach to the hut can be made entirely via the lift systems from Chamonix. Take the t?©l?©ph?©rique to the summit of the Aiguille du Midi and then the Helbronner lift across the vall?©e blanche to the hut.

Day 2:
From the point Helbronner, pass the Col du Flambeau and go down the glacier to the foot of the Aiguille de Toule. Skirt around this and then ascend to the Col d‚ÄôEntr?®ves.
Fork left towards the Col Occidental de Toule and up a steep snow slope 45Àö.
Follow the snowy ridge to the summit.

Descent
On the E side, go down snow and rock to the Col Oriental de Toule. Descend the snow slope and rocks from there.

Aiguille de la Berangere

admin — Thu, 06 May 2010 17:17:02 +0000

The route is climbed from the Conscrits hut which is reached from the village of Cugnon (1100m), near to Les Contamines.

Grade F
Length of climb 695m height gain, 3 hours
High season june – september
Day 1:
To Conscrits hut.

From Les Contamines, go to small village of Cugnon (1100m) and park.

Take the well-marked trail up through the forest to the Tr?É¬©-la-T?É¬™te hut (2 hours).

From there, follow the path to the foot of the glacier (1 hour), then head towards the centre of the glacier and up towards the Tr?É¬©-la-Grande seracs. Cross the flat area below the seracs towards the right bank.

Climb up onto the right bank of the glacier on fairly steep ground, following blue paint marks.There are fixed ropes and hand lines in steepest section then a path leading to the hut.

3 hours from Tr?É¬©-la-T?É¬™te hut, 5 hours in total.

Day 2:

From the hut, climb the NW moraine on the left, leading to a large snow slope.

This leads on to a steeper section to reach the B?É¬©rang?É¬®re glacier.

Climb the glacier and then the easy rocks to the summit.

Descent

Same route in reverse.

back to climbing routes in Chamonix

Aiguille de la Berangere

admin — Thu, 06 May 2010 17:15:38 +0000

Grade F

Length of climb 695m height gain, 3 hours

High season june – september

Access
The route is climbed from the Conscrits hut which is reached from the village of Cugnon (1100m), near to Les Contamines.

Route

Day 1:
To Conscrits hut.
From Les Contamines, go to small village of Cugnon (1100m) and park.
Take the well-marked trail up through the forest to the Tr?©-la-T?™te hut (2 hours).
From there, follow the path to the foot of the glacier (1 hour), then head towards the centre of the glacier and up towards the Tr?©-la-Grande seracs. Cross the flat area below the seracs towards the right bank.
Climb up onto the right bank of the glacier on fairly steep ground, following blue paint marks.There are fixed ropes and hand lines in steepest section then a path leading to the hut.
3 hours from Tr?©-la-T?™te hut, 5 hours in total.

Day 2:
From the hut, climb the NW moraine on the left, leading to a large snow slope.
This leads on to a steeper section to reach the B?©rang?®re glacier.
Climb the glacier and then the easy rocks to the summit.

Descent
Same route in reverse.

Chamonix Climbing Route Guides

admin — Thu, 06 May 2010 17:12:36 +0000

Climbing in the Mt Blanc massif and the Chamonix Valley means compact rock, high mountains, superb granite and miles of gneiss.

Crags are usually equipped. Mountain routes may be partially equipped, but usually have at least abseil points in place.

Guide books are essential. The best ones are recommended at appropriate points in chamonix.net.

The lifts open for the summer around June 15th but the Midi lift operates year round, except for scheduled maintenance usually in November.

Want to be inspired. Click here for a video of rockclimbing in the Chamonix valley.

It can get hot. Guide books describe the orientation of the crag so plan the climb when it is in the shade. Don’t forget to take water.

Weather not looking so good or just looking to get a bit of practice in? Head to one of the Chamonix Valley indoor climbing walls.

Aiguille du tour

admin — Thu, 06 May 2010 16:59:43 +0000

3542m

Grade F (facile ‚Äì easy)
Main difficulties lie in routefinding on the upper sections of the Tour glacier.

Height gain
Day 1 : Col de Balme to Albert Premier hut 600m
Day 2 : Albert Premier hut to Aiguille du Tour 840m

This route is at the very eastern border of the Mont Blanc range, straddling the french/swiss border offering great views over the Trient glacier and Valaisan Alps to the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa in the distance.
The peak itself lies opposite the beautiful Aiguille du Chardonnet on the Tour glacier.
The route follows the Tour glacier to the sunny side of the Trient basin. The last 100m of the climb is on good granite.

High season July, August to mid-September

Route

Day 1 : To the Albert Premier hut

Day 2: From the hut to the Aiguille du Tour

The track starts behind the hut in an easterly direction.
After about 15 minutes, the Tour glacier is reached. Put on crampons and rope up.
Cross diagonally eastwards keeping in line with the Aiguilles. As it steepens, look for a rocky outcrop on the right hand side called Signal Reilly. Go around this on the uphill side to gain gentle slopes once more. Continue south-east, passing on the left a glacial bay which leads to the Couloir de la Table.
Walk up a snowy bowl, leading to the Col Sup?©rieur du Tour and so to the Trient glacier.
Head north alongside the Purtschellar ridge.
After a steep rise, you will see the Tour peaks. Cross the bergschrund below the gap between the two peaks.
Go up the snow slope to a shoulder below the left hand side of the left peak. From here it is an easy and pleasant rock climb up to the southern summit.

Descent
Same route in reverse.

3 day route
The Aiguille du Tour can be part of a 3 day route which takes in the T?™te Blanche also.
Day 1 ‚Äì go to the Albert Premier hut.
Day 2 ‚Äì climb the T?™te Blanche and go to the Trient hut.
Day 3 ‚Äì Climb the Aiguille du Tour and return to France over the Col Sup?©rieur du Tour.

Comparison of french and english climbing grades

admin — Thu, 06 May 2010 16:55:02 +0000

UK	French
Easy	1
Easy	2
Moderate	2+
Difficult	3
Very Difficult	?Ç¬†
Severe	3+
Hard Severe	4
Very Severe	4
Hard Very Severe	4+
E1	5
	5+
	6a
E2	6a+
E2	6b
E3	6b+
E3	6c
E4	6c+
	7a
	7a+
	7b
E5	7b+
	7c
	7c+
E6	8a
	8a+
	8b
E7	8b+
	8c
	8c+
E8	9a
E8	9a+

A Beginners Quick Start Guide to Climbing in the Chamonix Valley

admin — Tue, 04 May 2010 10:00:12 +0000

A Beginners Quick Start Guide to Climbing in the Chamonix Valley

New to climbing in the Alps? Want to improve your skills but feel the routes here are all A5 , 8a+, run-out, avalanche-prone, big, gnarly, death routes? Well fear not, dear novice… Below is a little information that will help you choose some easy multi-pitch routes in the Valley and give you some good crag areas to start climbing when a) the weather is poor up high or b) when you don’t feel like a big route but still want to climb. Most of the routes below are rock oriented, and some mixed. There are also several easy mountaineering routes here in the Valley, but they are too numerous to detail here.

Its first worth noting that no, you don’t have to be Wolfgang Gullich or Ueli Steck to do some really fun and beautiful routes here. Most people who will come to Cham to start their mountain climbing here probably are not 100% utter beginners, and they may have had some experience in climbing at the indoor wall or done some cragging (either single or multi-pitch.) * There are even routes in Cham that are completely bolted (to the joy of some and the disconsolation of others…)

*If you are completely and truly new to climbing, a bigger and committing route is not where you should start unless you actually like, and seek out mental trauma. If you are indeed a total newbie, try going either to a local wall or a local small crag with a knowledgeable and experienced friend or join a course. You’ll need to know how to belay and some basic safety info before getting your teeth into anything outdoors or bigger. If in doubt, go with a friend who has more experience than you and take it conservatively to help avoid potential epics.

A good way to start, if you are visiting here, is to try on your first day some multi-pitches at a local crag like Le Gailland, with its park atmosphere and interesting gneiss rock (Don’t swim in the lake. Apparently there are eels in it.) Or, if you like slabs, try Vallorcine. There are several routes here that have a couple pitches or more, and that are well bolted and available in a range of grades. These kinds of routes can help you iron out any kinks or slow parts between you and your partner that will become painfully obvious on longer routes… (things like: swapping leads, organising your rappells, rope tangles, etc.) The sooner you make sure you can organise your ropework quickly, the sooner bigger and more fun routes are open to you. (A terrific book with useful tips on improving your efficiency and speed in the hills is the Mountaineer’s series’ “Alpine techniques to take you Higher” by Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston. Also “Freedom of the Hills” or even better, The Climbing Handbook by Fyfe et al. Explains everything you ever wanted to know about ropework and technique but were embarassed to ask. Rebuffats 100 best climbs in the Mont Blanc area is gorgeous and gives some great ideas on routes as well.)

The south facing Aiguille Rouges side is a good side of the valley to start on, as it is often in the sun and is usually bolted. As some of the routes are more run out, it is a great place to start working on placing your trad gear in a safe way (if it all blows, you still have a bolt nearby, and the belays/abseils are often bolted as well.) Routes like Index have some bolts and pins / pitons and are a good way of learning how to use natural protection as a way of moving quickly. You can also place a bit of gear here and there. There are also some routes on the face of L’Index but they are a bit loose at the top, so be aware of moving rock. Also the Traverse Crichues is a good beginners route, and although harder to find and not bolted, it an easy intro to the style of climbing here – and the descent through the snowfield and lunch at the Lac Blanc makes for a great day out. Also, Barberine, just past Vallorcine also has a beautiful multipitch slab crag and a variety of fab routes.

Good routes that you can also practise trad on are on the Aiguille de Gliere (Manu Puliti and Nez Rouges, mostly bolted, save for a couple gear placements if you want, and both go at about f5+). If you are feeling good and moving quickly on the routes, Chapel de Gliere is fun and has an exciting airy ridge (The route is somewhat long, though, so you’ve got to be fairly quick with your climbing and ropework.)

Around the valley there are loads of great areas that are a bit farther afield. It helps to have access to a car to get to lesser climbed routes like the Dalle D’Amone…

Once you are confident on these routes, then you might want to try some routes on the North Facing side of the Valley (the Mont Blanc Side.) Roues like Aiguille De L’M are great beginner / improver routes. (Note the classic route on L’M can be polished and is a long walk in.) Other routes that are great are Nabot Leon on the Blaitiere (approaching from the Midi mid station, you pass the Blaitiere and double back on yourself as there is frequent rockfall if you approach directly – if in doubt, ask at the maison de Montagne for them to show you on a map.) Nabot Leon has fun flakes and a jungle-gym style with the hardest move (at a bolt) as a 6a /+.

If you want to go up higher, the Cosmiques Arrette is one of the most beautiful classic mixed climbs you can find. The views are stunning. You must be competent in crampons and know how to self-arrest with your axe, etc. The route is a lot of walking a scrambling on good quality rock with a few harder climbing moves done in crampons (the only “hard” move is near the end, and is about a f5 but offers a big bolt and a sling ladder if you want to use it.)

Mountaingirl’s Beginners Quick Start Guide to Climbing in the Chamonix Valley

admin — Tue, 04 May 2010 09:47:02 +0000

A Beginners Quick Start Guide to Climbing in the Chamonix Valley

A good way to start, if you are visiting here, is to try on your first day some multi-pitches at a local crag like Le Gailland, with its park atmosphere and interesting gneiss rock (Don’t swim in the lake. Apparently there are eels in it.) Or, if you like slabs, try Vallorcine. There are several routes here that have a couple pitches or more, and that are well bolted and available in a range of grades. These kinds of routes can help you iron out any kinks or slow parts between you and your partner that will become painfully obvious on longer routes… (things like: swapping leads, organising your rappells, rope tangles, etc.) The sooner you make sure you can organise your ropework quickly, the sooner bigger and more fun routes are open to you. (A terrific book with useful tips on improving your efficiency and speed in the hills is the Mountaineer’s series’ ‚ÄúAlpine techniques to take you Higher‚Äù by Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston. Also ‚ÄúFreedom of the Hills‚Äù or even better, The Climbing Handbook by Fyfe et al. Explains everything you ever wanted to know about ropework and technique but were embarassed to ask. Rebuffats 100 best climbs in the Mont Blanc area is gorgeous and gives some great ideas on routes as well.)

The south facing Aiguille Rouges side is a good side of the valley to start on, as it is often in the sun and is usually bolted. As some of the routes are more run out, it is a great place to start working on placing your trad gear in a safe way (if it all blows, you still have a bolt nearby, and the belays/abseils are often bolted as well.) Routes like Index have some bolts and pins / pitons and are a good way of learning how to use natural protection as a way of moving quickly. You can also place a bit of gear here and there. There are also some routes on the face of L’Index but they are a bit loose at the top, so be aware of moving rock. Also the Traverse Crichues is a good beginners route, and although harder to find and not bolted, it an easy intro to the style of climbing here ‚Äì and the descent through the snowfield and lunch at the Lac Blanc makes for a great day out. Also, Barberine, just past Vallorcine also has a beautiful multipitch slab crag and a variety of fab routes.

Around the valley there are loads of great areas that are a bit farther afield. It helps to have access to a car to get to lesser climbed routes like the Dalle D’Amone…

Once you are confident on these routes, then you might want to try some routes on the North Facing side of the Valley (the Mont Blanc Side.) Roues like Aiguille De L’M are great beginner / improver routes. (Note the classic route on L’M can be polished and is a long walk in.) Other routes that are great are Nabot Leon on the Blaitiere (approaching from the Midi mid station, you pass the Blaitiere and double back on yourself as there is frequent rockfall if you approach directly ‚Äì if in doubt, ask at the maison de Montagne for them to show you on a map.) Nabot Leon has fun flakes and a jungle-gym style with the hardest move (at a bolt) as a 6a /+.

If you want to go up higher, the Cosmiques Arrette is one of the most beautiful classic mixed climbs you can find. The views are stunning. You must be competent in crampons and know how to self-arrest with your axe, etc. The route is a lot of walking a scrambling on good quality rock with a few harder climbing moves done in crampons (the only ‚Äúhard‚Äù move is near the end, and is about a f5 but offers a big bolt and a sling ladder if you want to use it.)

Tips:

‚Ä¢Older Alpine Grades are often harder than you would think. Rebuffat Routes and older grades from the Michel Piola guides can be under graded by a good amount. Newer Piola routes and routes in the Aiguille Rouges often feel more generous. What is comfortable for you on a single pitch at Stanage will feel very different with a pack, at altitude, after a longer walk-in and amongst several pitches. We’ve seen 7c climbers here fall off of 6cs. A lot, come to think of it.

‚Ä¢Work on your ropework and efficiency and speed (in a safe, redundant way, of course!)

‚Ä¢Have a working knowledge of basic elements like abseils and multi-pitch skills. If you are crossing glaciers, know about Glacier travel and crevasse rescue. If you are climbing in Winter or at a time where there is an avalanche risk, take a transceiver, shovel and probe and know how to use them before you actually need to use them.

‚Ä¢Often finding the start of a climb is one of the hardest parts of the day. Allow time for this and know how to read a map and use a compass (which is a useful skill anyways.)

‚Ä¢Don’t be afraid to ask local climbers for advice on routes and conditions (but take what they say with a grain of salt, don’t ask the local piss-head or the area’s ego-maniac if you can help it.) The Maison de Montagne staff are knowledgable and very helpful.

‚Ä¢Don’t blindly trust in-situ gear like slings and pitons. They have been know to fail. Check it and don’t be afraid to leave behind a nut, sling or tat if you are in doubt as your life is worth more than ¬£10.

‚Ä¢Find out the weather report ‚Äì in summer, afternoon thunder storms can come in quickly and lightning takes lives each year. If you are caught out abseiling on a wet rope, remember it is as attractive to lightning as a hairpin and electric socket are to a two year old.

‚Ä¢Find out about routes near to your climb so you can recognise if you get off route or if you have a problem and need an alternative or escape option.

‚Ä¢Learn the means of descent and any alternative descent / escape options (e.g.abseiling off nearby routes or trails or paths close by.)

‚Ä¢Don’t rely on Mountain rescue to save your butt. Try to be self-reliant and make good decisions, even if you are epic-ing. Calling out a rescue costs a lot of time and money and takes the rescuers away from someone who might be dying. (Of course if you are actually in the process of dying, or are pretty sure it might happen shortly, then please ignore last point…)

‚Ä¢Look at the kind of climbing specified in your topo- if it is 6a continuous cracks on trad gear, then it will be a LOT harder than a 6a jug-fest. This is especially true near the Envers hut.

‚Ä¢Easier and popular routes can get crowded. If you go early, you are less likely to have to wait in a queue

‚Ä¢Having a couple of different guidebooks will be useful as sometimes one will omit important or changed info and sometimes the grades disagree. You can always bring a photocopy of the topo so you don’t have to lug books in your pack.

‚Ä¢If in doubt, always be safe and redundant in every situation. And take your apprenticeship in the mountains conservatively and prudently. Your mum will thank you.

¬†

Routes to start on:

Gailland crags

L’Index- the ridge

Grand Floria (Bolted, some are a little run out but bolts are almost always in the places you need it.)

Try in order of difficulty: Athena, Sentier Lumineux, Robin Wood, and la Lampe D’allardin (with a fun 6a+ crux) You can walk off but its a great place to work on your efficiency mutli-pitch abseiling. You can sometimes jump over to other routes if you want to avoid a pitch, just be aware of getting in the way of others

And Neighbouring on Floria:

Asia (5+) If that is too easy and you’re feeling strong. There is a also Fraise de Boatches (6a?), and the exhilerating Neiges de Kilamanjero (spicy second pitch- technical and not easy but well bolted.)

Frisson Roche on the face of Brevent. (Well bolted, 5/5+, with 2 pitches of 6a well protected. Final pitch is one of the most lovely corners in the world and the walk off is 5 minutes to the telecabine. Can get crowded.

Cosmique Arrete (must be comfortable on Crampons and know self arrests etc….) – Trad, occasional bolts and pitons and bolted abseils.

Aiguille De L’M (trad- classic route. Long walk in and is now a bit polished but fun.)

Nabot Leon on the Blaitiere (mostly bolted, you might want to bring some cams/aliens and slings.)

Arrette de papillion on the Peigne ‚Äì One of the most gorgeous and fun routes in the Valley- very exposed and airy in places but generally not too gard climbing. About f5+ trad. Note that the only escape is after the letterbox section, so be aware of time and the weather. Abseil and scramble descent then cross a small glacier/snowfield.
Dalle D/Amone (the Amone Slab) in Val Ferret. 6A+. can be run out but if you like slabs this is a classic. Walk off from the top.

Tcaio Godillo in the Col du Colombiere (f6a be aware when you abseil that the rappells are on a different route next to yours and that the limestone has sharp ridges sharp in places.)

Crags: There are loads of great crags around. Check out – Gaillands, Vallorcine, Bouldering near the Cremerie at Grands Montets and at Les Bossons, Le Fayet. Harder crags include: Foron, Pont des Gets, and Gietroz. Great for a day when its not great up high.

Harder but great routes:

Rebuffat on the Eperon of the Midi (6a+ roof has a piton and a sling usually. Finish on the Cosmiques arrete. The rest is about a f5 / 5+. The start has changed due to the lower snow line and begin often to the left along a series of crumbly ledges for about 10 metres.

Rebuffat on the Sud Face of the Midi (The direct start is a lot harder now as the glacier level is lower. Many start to the right of the roof near the Contamines start and traverse. Short abseil onto viewing deck of the midi station.)