The Gailland area has around 130 bolted routes. Opened in the 1930′s as a place where alpinists could learn to climb. Due to easy access it can get very busy at times.

View Sport climbing at Les Gaillands in a larger map

2 km south south west from Chamonix town centre. Accessed directly from the road.

The Areas

• Grand Gailland
• Le Petit Gaillands
• Picsou
• Vipers

Description

C’est le paradis des débutants et des grimpeurs très occasionnels, grâce à une multitude de voies du 3 au 5. D’ailleurs, la falaise est très fréquentée… presque tous les jours de l’année ! Que ce soit par des grimpeurs en chaussons ou alpinistes en chaussures de montagne. Les rochers des Gaillands sont une sorte de lieu mythique où se retrouvent, durant la belle saison, tous les échantillons de la faune grimpante : c’est l’alpinodrome. A éviter si l’on aime le calme. Le paysage lointain est sympa : très belle vue sur le massif du Mont-Blanc et en particulier le glacier des Bossons, Le proche l’est moins : route et parking mais dans les secteurs de gauche, on est confiné dans la forêt.

L’escalade

• le rocher, un gneiss compact, offre une escalade variée: dalles, fissures, surplombs… avec 60% des voies d’un niveau inférieur au 5+.
• I’équipement est constitué de solides scellements. Par endroits les points restent espacés (chutes dangereuses possibles).
• Informations complète dans “Guide des écoles d’escalade de la vallée de chamonix”

Accès

Ce site se trouve à 2 km de Chamonix-centre (de la Poste). Prendre la direction “les Gaillands”; la falaise est au bord de la route.

Grade F
Length of climb 695m height gain, 3 hours
High season june – september
Access

The route is climbed from the Conscrits hut which is reached from the village of Cugnon (1100m), near to Les Contamines.

Route

Day 1:

To Conscrits hut.

From Les Contamines, go to small village of Cugnon (1100m) and park.

Take the well-marked trail up through the forest to the Tré la Tête hut (2 hours).

From there, follow the path to the foot of the glacier (1 hour), then head towards the centre of the glacier and up towards the Tré la Tête-Grande seracs. Cross the flat area below the seracs towards the right bank.

Climb up onto the right bank of the glacier on fairly steep ground, following blue paint marks.There are fixed ropes and hand lines in steepest section then a path leading to the hut.

3 hours from Tré la Tête  hut, 5 hours in total.

Agrandir le plan

Day 2:

From the hut, climb the NW moraine on the left, leading to a large snow slope.

This leads on to a steeper section to reach the B?ɬ©rang?ɬ®re glacier.

Climb the glacier and then the easy rocks to the summit.

Descent

Same route in reverse.

Enfin des bonnes conditions prévues et une météo au beau ! cool

Nous devions monter au dôme de Polset mais au dernier moment nous avons appelé le refuge des conscrits où le sympathique gardien pouvait nous accueillir, c’est donc parti pour les Dômes de Miage.

Départ de Chambéry, camp de base au camping du lac Carouge, pour le Cugnon juste à côté des Contamines en Haute Savoie, 1h30 de route.

The International Climbing Festival tonight contests the Speed climbing finals.

Two British climbers were killed climbing the Frendo Spur Route on the Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix on Friday 1st July.

The latest news is that may have fallen 800-850m. Please see this website for further details.

 

“Pretty straightforward approach from the Plan d-Aiguille station (halfway station up the Aiguille du Midi Lift). Put that helmet on early because of the crud falling off.

Check the Weather at the OHM (Office du Haute Montagtne) and read the climber’s log book there for the latest conditions. Watch it as the rock and icefall last year were above average.”

SummitPost.org

Traverse of the D?¥mes du Miage

This is a very manageable ridge route with incredible views of Mont Blanc and the Bionnassay. The d?¥mes form a chain of five summits to the south west of the Mont Blanc massif. The route includes both rock and ice and often follows the slender crest of the ridge so good mastery of crampon technique is essential. The days are long so fitness is also a requirement.
The ridge can be climbed in either direction but east to west is most commonly taken.

Length of climb – 1st day: 1600m height gain – 5-6 hours
Р2nd day:3km long ridge, 950m to highest point – 5 hours Descent – 4-5 hours

High season – June to September

Equipment – axe, crampons, 30m rope, harness, ice screws, 3 quickdraws

Access
Climbed from the Conscrits hut, reached from Les Contamines.

Route

Day1:
To the Conscrits hut.
From Les Contamines, go to the small village of Cugnon and park.
Take the well-marked trail up through the forest to the Tr?©-la-T?™te hut (1970m), 2 hours.
From there, follow the path to the foot of the glacier (1 hour), then head towards the centre of the glacier and up towards the Tr?©-la-Grande seracs. Cross the flat area below the seracs towards the right bank.
Follow blue paint marks to climb to the hut. There are fixed ropes and hand lines in sections. 3 hours from Tr?©-la-T?™te hut.

Day 2:
Take the track behind the hut in a north-easterly direction leading to the Tr?©-la-T?™te glacier- rope and crampons required.
Go north to pass above the heavily crevassed section and then return to the middle of the glacier. Climb the central section, maneuvering past obstacles on their right hand sides.
At 3300m, the slope flattens out and the Col des D?¥mes can be seen to the north-west, between the 3rd and 4th d?¥mes. Reach the bowl leading to the col from the right bank to avoid the seracs and climb to the col.
From here, the route is more technical.
Follow the crest of the ridge to the left in a south-westerly direction up to pointe 3669m. Then walk diagonally down across the top of the Armancette glacier on the north face to reach the Col de la B?©rang?®re.
To make the descent easier, it is better to climb La B?©rang?®re.
Take the ridge from the col, then when the exposure is too great, go up the north face – may be snow or rock depending on conditions at the time.

Descent
Follow the southwest rocky ridge of La B?©rang?®re down to the left bank of a small glacier. Once the flatter section is reached, bear right in a southwesterly direction. Cross snow and scree slopes to a track leading to the Tr?©-la-T?™te glacier or the Conscrits hut.

Dent du G?©ant SW face

Grade AD

This is an excellent peak with airy climbing on high quality rock with a fantastic 360 view from the top.
An early start is not necessary as it is in shade in the morning, though you may want to beat the crowds.
There are fixed ropes up most of the climb.

Length of climb - 4¬? to 5¬? hours from the hut

High season – June to September

Equipment – axe, crampons, rope, harness, slings, nuts, quickdraws

Access – from Torino hut

Route
Day1:
Hut is accessed from the Aiguille du Midi t?©l?©pherique station and crossing the Vall?©e Blanche via the t?©lecabine to Pt Helbronner.

Day 2:
From the hut, cross the glacier passing right of point 3615m to the base of the shoulder underneath the Dent du G?©ant. Go up the snowy couloir to the col on the left and then follow the ridge on right leading up to the face. Climb this in much the same line. As the angle lessens near the top, a large pillar can be seen.
Go around this on either side to the snowy ar?™te beyond. This leads to a large rock called the Salle ?† Manger. Climb a large flake to the left of this and the slab above.
Traverse left here for 10m or so then climb about 30m up a couloir to a terrace on the left. From here, fixed ropes are on the exposed slabs leading to the SW summit.
To reach the NE summit, descend a short chimney and climb facing wall up to the top.

Descent
By abseil down the south face to the Salle ?† Manger.

History

Pointe Graham (4,013 m), first ascent by W. W. Graham with guides Auguste Cupelin and Alphonse Payot on 20 August 1882. This ascent marked the end of the so-called silver age of alpinism.

Pointe Sella (4,009 m), first ascent by Jean Joseph Maquignaz with son Baptiste Maquignaz and nephew, Daniel Maquignaz on 28 July 1882. The same party climbed Pointe Sella a second time on the following day with clients Alessandro Sella, Alfonso Sella, Corradino Sella and Gaudenzio Sella. Graham noted on his first ascent that one of the Maquignazes had carved the letter ‘M’ on a rock step just below the summit of Pointe Sella.

Keywords Aiguille du Midi, alpine climbing, chamonix climbing, Climbing, climbing routes, Dent du Geant, glacier

Grade PD

This is a steep snow gully on the SW side of the Aiguille du Tour.
The route is named after a large granite boulder which has fallen on its side and is miraculously perched on the west ridge. The ‘table’ is an amazing feature and makes the route an amusing challenge to climbers.

Length of climb 3¬? hours from hut to summit of Aiguille du Tour 3544m

High season must be climbed early season for there to be snow in the couloir. Preferably may/june.

Access
From the village of Le Tour, take the Charamillon t?©l?©cabine and the Balme chairlift to the Col de Balme.

Route
Day 1 : To the Albert Premier hut

From the top of the lift, follow the well-marked track south.
The trail goes left, overlooking the Tour glacier, then crosses a rocky section which is fairly steep but not difficult.
Crampons may be needed for final section up to the hut.
1¬? hours.

Day 2
The track starts behind the hut in an easterly direction.
After about 15 minutes, the Tour glacier is reached. Put on crampons and rope up.
Cross diagonally eastwards keeping in line with the Aiguilles. As it steepens, look for a rocky outcrop on the right hand side called Signal Reilly. Go around this on the uphill side to gain gentle slopes once more. Continue south-east. On the left,a glacial bay leads to the Couloir de la Table.
The couloir is climbed on steep snow and ice up to an angle of 50Àö and leads to a notch in the W ridge just above the table.
A variation is to leave the couloir on the left and gain the ridge just below the table. A large ledge is reached and the table is climbed by an exposed mantle.
From here, it is easy but exposed climbing along the ridge to the summit.

Cosmiques Ar?™te

From there climb the snow slope to the right of the ridge- narrow in places. Move rightwards to reach the inclined slabs. Climb to the first gendarme of the subsidiary summit 3731m and proceed along the crest of the ridge to the second.

From here the route descends slightly while traversing. This is exposed and it can be advisable to abseil. Continue on to pass between two rock walls and then abseil 30m down a small gully. Traverse across to a tower where you climb a slightly awkward chimney (4a) to a substantial ledge on the right.

Go over a short snow slope to regain the ridge and from here you can choose either to go right round a second tower or left around it by descending a split in the tower to a snowy crest. Proceed along the ridge to the final step. Climb a short, slabby wall (4c) to a small ledge, then up a few metres either by a chimney on the left or a crack on the right to a platform.

Traverse left and step down to reach a large corner/ chimney. Climb this in 2 pitches (3c/4a) to a final snowy shoulder and the applause of the crowd as you reach the viewing platform. Bask in the glory and have a well- earned beer!

Descent
Aiguille du Midi t?©l?©ph?©rique.

• +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03

90 places

On the southern slopes of the Tr?ɬ©-la-Grande, on the right bank of the Tr?ɬ©-la-T?ɬ™te glacier.

From Les Contamines, go to small village of Cugnon and park.
Take the well-marked trail up through the forest to the Tr?ɬ©-la-T?ɬ™te hut. 2 hours. From there, follow the path to the foot of the glacier (1 hour), then head towards the centre of the glacier and up towards the Tr?ɬ©-la-Grande seracs.

Cross the flat area below the seracs towards the right bank.

Follow blue paint marks to climb to the hut. There are fixed ropes and hand lines in sections.
3 hours from Tr?ɬ©-la-T?ɬ™te hut, 5 hours from Cugnon.

The British grading system for traditional climbs has two parts: the adjectival grade and the technical grade. (Sport climbing in Britain uses the French grading system, often prefixed with the letter “F”.)
The adjectival grade attempts to assess the overall difficulty of the climb taking into account all factors, for a climber leading the route on sight in traditional style. In the early 20th century it ran Easy, Moderate, Difficult, but increasing standards have several times lead to extra grades being added at the top. The adjectival grades are as follows:

• Easy (rarely used)
• Moderate (M)
• Difficult (D, or ‘Diff’)
• Very Difficult (VD, or ‘VDiff’)
• Hard Very Difficult (HVD)
• Severe (S)
• Hard Severe(HS)
• Very Severe (VS)
• Hard Very Severe (HVS)
‚Ä¢ Extremely Severe (E1, E2, E3, …)
• XS is used for climbs that are on loose or crumbling rock that are seldom repeated after the first ascent

The Extremely Severe grade is subdivided in an open-ended fashion into E1 (easiest) then E2, E3 and so on. As of 2006 the hardest climb is graded E11, but many climbers consider such high grades provisional as the climbs have not yet been climbed by anyone on sight. The hardest confirmed grade is E9.

Some guidebooks make finer distinctions by adding the prefix “Mild” or “Hard” (thus, Hard Very Difficult and Mild Severe lie between Very Difficult and Severe).
The technical grade attempts to assess only the technical climbing difficulty of the hardest move or moves on the route without regard to the danger of the move or the stamina required if there are several such moves in a row. Technical grades are open-ended, starting at 1 and subdivided into “a”, “b” and “c”, but you are unlikely to see any mention of them below 4a. The hardest recorded climbs are around 7b.

Usually the technical grade increases with the adjectival grade but a hard technical move very near the ground (that is, notionally safe) may not raise the standard of the adjectival grade very much. VS 4c might be a typical grade for a route. VS 4a would usually indicate very poor protection (easy moves, but no gear), VS 5b would usually indicate the crux move was the first move or very well protected. On multi-pitch routes it is usual to give the overall climb an adjectival grade and each pitch a separate technical grade (such as HS 4b, 4a).

Grade Comparison Chart